Being true to yourself means making choices that reflect your wishes and desires. If you know what you stand for and what your focus is, you can apply that in every area of your life including fashion. Your choices will be defined by who you are.
MOYO Straight Shirt with Mud Cloth Pocket
One of the slow fashion principles is the consciousness of the purchase. When you go shopping as a conscious shopper you will be looking for pieces that are a reflection of who you are and what you stand for. Your wardrobe will be a thoughtfully curated one, where each item will be like an experience you’re enjoying every time you wear it.
There are no unconsciously imposed obligations within the slow fashion purchasing process. We don’t have to buy something because of its brand name or because it’s cheap or on sale, but because we need it, or because making an investment is worth the experience it gives you. When there’s deep thought going into the process of writing the story of a garment you’ll feel it when you see it, when you touch it. You’ll know you’ve been an important part of the process, not just a means toward endless gain.
Another element of the ‘true to self’ concept is the gradual introduction of a garment into a client’s life. A complete sensorial experience will take place when you shop for a unique piece. If what you see attracts you to come in you will touch the product, feel what it’s made of, put it on and become one with it. If it all comes together, you’ll fall in love because everything about this piece makes sense from the aesthetic to the feel of the fabric, to the way it falls into place when on you.
But there’s a price tag. A low one will be telling a lot about how fair the product is made and how every step of the way has been appreciated. A very high one will also tell you something is not falling into place and you are paying a significant amount for the name only. The right price tag should feel good for a conscious shopper and, you will get that feeling when you buy with the whole story in mind. It might be something you afford a couple of times a year, but it will be worth it, because you only buy when you need or when you see something unique and because you will be able to use it for quite a number of years due to its quality.
On the other hand, when fashion’s purpose is gain, the downfall is that it will try to define who you are because your power of purchase is of great value within the fast side of things.
The market has taught us to be satisfied with too little for tens of years now. Buying has become a habit instead of a need. Low prices, countless sales and commercials and endless collections have taken over our minds and we’re not able to make a difference between what we really need and what we buy because it’s something new again or because it’s on sale. We have become defined by an addiction within fast fashion.
The slow fashion process is a holistic one where involvement happens from production to the buyer’s decision making. The thought going into creating a piece of clothing from designer to buyer is a representation of how important the buyer is in this whole process – their needs, the versatility of a piece and the quality of it in order to serve a client as much and as best as possible.
A slow fashion piece will stand for a good, clean and fair process. If fashion is not trying to play around with us and tempt us to buy as much as possible and if that is what we believe in within slow fashion, we will not feel overwhelmed by the choice or the drop in prices that will make every item immensely more temping than in normal circumstances.
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When we say timeless we think of something we can wear for a long time, no matter the season or trend. When we say long lasting we think of a product that will keep its feel and quality over a period of time that extends longer than one season. Slow fashion production is a thoughtful process where time and quality merge to provide something that you will enjoy for years and will remember long after the article will have served your expectations.
Timeless is a concept that encompasses different factors. First, we have the design part where the designer looks to what an article can do for the consumer and how long he or she is able to use it. If one can use it every season, no matter the trend and combine it in different ways, we have a winner and the piece will go into production.
Then there’s the development of garments that have a cultural and emotional connection. An article of clothing will be kept longer and worn more if it connects to our souls every time we put it on. Culturally we could be talking about an accent like, in our case, the African print lining or the Mali Mud Cloth Tunic and pockets for our minimalistic shirts. Pieces that celebrate interculturality by combining European minimalism with the African touch we so proudly talk about in our stories.
That small patch of fabric speaks of clothing that is not just a bunch of fabric cut and put together, but that thought has gone into building an identity that hopefully connects to yours. When you know you’re wearing a cultural piece, sustainably and ethically made, every time you put it on you'll feel you have chosen for something that is an honor and joy to wear.
Emotionally a piece of clothing connects to your principles. When a conscious shopper makes a choice, it will be a well thought one as the question list from our previous article is being checked away. It’s story will encompass principles of sustainability and ethics and if those are met, consumers will keep an article of clothing longer than one season. Wearing a garment the makers of which have been paid and cared for properly, the fabric has been carefully selected and the seams of which have been hand stitched with an eye for detail and precision, will make you want to wear it endlessly because of what you will stand for when wearing it.
In terms of Fast Fashion, it’s seasonal character is defined by two main aspects – production for gain and fabrics for cost saving. When fast fashion chains produce an item the idea is how to bring it from the design table to the shop as fast as possible with the least amount of costs and most gain in mind.
The natural consequence will be underpaid and pressured workers and bulk productions with hasty examinations lacking detail and precision. Fabrics will not escape the fast fashion consequences either since a cheap fabric will add up less to the final store price meaning more profit margin for the designer and retailer. The demand here is not created by need, but by how fast an industry wants to grow no matter the cost.
Our hope is that consumers will take control of the situation and stimulate a change for the good – we have great power when making a purchase as one will lead to another person's purchase and so on. So on your next conscious shopping trip make sure you’ll purchase well. Go for timeless, sustainable, sensorial products that have a story and will not let you down.
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Within our brand we like to say that every garment has a story.
The story of a garment is written as production is happening, from fabric to production process, from team to the store rack. Within slow fashion production, this happens with an eye for detail and focus on all aspects of the chain. We call that slow manufacturing and that includes quite a number of factors:
A healthy production chain will take all these factors into consideration to make something well, will keep asking questions and be involved, for the sake of both the maker and that of the buyer.
Fast Fashion on the other hand disconnects a healthy production chain since the above criteria does not apply. The important thing when manufacturing happens fast is how to get something from idea to rack as soon as possible. Things have to be produced quickly and when that happens you do not have time to think about details like workers and needs, but on how to get the product sold quickly and often. Unfortunately, this has been happening so much for such a long time that the fashion industry has created a self imposed high-demand that they ‘have to’ cater to.
Fast Fashion is about bulk production and when you produce things in bulk you will end up with cheaper things and less quality of garment and of labor conditions. Factories in under developed countries like Myanmar, Bangladesh or India have been producing a lot as those markets charge much less than a developed country and that’s what you need when you want to produce a lot. These markets have gotten very good at production, but also at accepting the little they are getting because otherwise they would not get paid at all.
That is just what fast fashion needs – an excuse to keep producing the same fast way and make the most for themselves “Because they ARE earning something, right?” Well, not enough. And when electricity is out and they been spending all day at the sowing table waiting for it to come back with kids on the floor next to them and electricity never came they will not get paid that day. No excuses. The approach needs to be smarter, not harder and the production lower and slower.
Maybe we cannot say we will stop buying fast directly, but we can start thinking about how to improve our spending habits. Start considering other aspects related to slow fashion like stopping clothing from going into landfills which means buying in a second hand store or in a store that sells what is left from previous collections from developed markets. That will save many items from just being thrown away and polluting our planet.
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One of the things MOYO stands for is the empowerment of the local market by purchasing and producing locally. We love combining African prints with plain fabrics and make sure it is all ethically sourced. This has led to us getting to know the market quite well and see its great talent, one that is not being encouraged or developed due to a strong sense of disempowerment.
Fabric Sourcing in Eastleigh, Nairobi
The African market – I’ve come to learn in my journey of starting a sustainable fashion brand in Kenya – is one of amazing potential. When walking around the Kenyan markets and streets, you see countless beautifully handmade items.Both the ability and the willingness are there. There are many artisans producing anything from jewelry to furniture, showing how much potential there is, yet most people still buy imported goods.
When seeing these promising items of Kenyan craftsmanship, one wonders WHY is there so little ‘made in Kenya’. Why so many opportunities are wasted, why so much is spent on import when locals are desperate for a job opportunity. Why so little stimuli for the local market.
As time passed and I got immersed into the culture, I’ve come to know that the root of the answer to these questions lies in a latent feeling of powerlessness in Africa, with the explanation found in its own history. We are all the products of our past and that is no less true for the African culture. Wangari Maathai (Nobel Prize winner and Rescuer of The Karura Forest in Nairobi) explains the problem of disempowerment in one of her books – The Challenge for Africa. Following is an excerpt on the above:
“While poverty is at the root of many of the pressing problems Africa faces, so is the poor’s apparent powerlessness. During the last forty to fifty years, most African states have come to believe that they cannot act on their behalf. Self-determination and personal and collective uplift, values embraced by the vast majority of Africans in the period after independence, have been eroded.” (LINK)
Disempowerment – whether through lack of self confidence, apathy, fear, or an inability to take charge of one’s own life – is perhaps the most unrecognized problem in Africa today. To the disempowered, it seems much easier or even more acceptable to leave one’s life in the hand of third parties, whether government, elected leaders, or, in some cases, aid agencies and faith-based organizations.
Somewhere on the way from colonialism to this emancipated Era, many Africans have lost the confidence in their potential either because of being told how to do things or due to constant help that has been provided along the past decade. This constant help is of no use, though if there is no proper education or a good foundation to build upon.
Nairobi schoolgirl (prior to Corona)
This feeling of disempowerment that has developed along the past decade has partly lead to and partly been caused by other aspects that are at the root of Africa not being part of major economic activities and creative initiatives. According to the founder of the first car manufacturing company in Kenya, there are three main problems in the country’s current situation: absence of skilled labor, no employment opportunities and mass-produced, imported goods.
Recognizing these problems is a first step into the start of the markets’ rehabilitation. Constant help without proper education is not a sustainable solution to the problem. What we should do if we want to offer help is guide Africa to solve problems from the inside out, not outside in. In terms of production, help the local craftsmen believe in their potential and have them produce things at a high quality level.
In terms of education, create awareness and actively getting involved in the local production by sharing knowledge among other things. In terms of imported goods, make whatever it is we need locally and encourage our entourage to do the same in order to make locals aware of the importance of local production for the country’s economy.
David at work on a new piece – The MOYO Trenchcoat
At MOYO, we want to believe in Africa and empower its locals, starting with where HQ is, in Nairobi, making them really feel like ‘YOU CAN DO IT!’ It takes lots of undoing and redoing and coming and going. This is like laying a first stone on a foundation that could redefine Africa’s involvement in economic activity. It’s time to believe they can because ‘it’s amazing how far you are willing to go when someone believes in you.’
When we see two such different cultures coming together creating a most unique piece by combining European minimalism with African print we are double proud – we’ve not only done it, but we’ve done it together and proved that Africa can do it!
MOYO Rhapsody Dress combining African print with up-cycled fabric
]]>When I started Moyo, I was a mom of three having just completed a move from one continent to another, on the look for those simple outfits that both look good and are super easy to slip into. But with no time to shop and no luck in finding what I wanted, and needed in the limited time i had to stroll through stores the idea of the shift dress came. I cannot say I was struck on the spot as I believe clothes do need to prove themselves worthy of your love, but as I made a couple and started wearing them I realised I had found my solution. (torn between wanting to still look like myself, but no time to shop and find something that both looks good and is super easy to slip into. Then I found the shift dress.
]]>Looking back fashion always used to be a hobby of mine though I wasn't quite aware of it at the time. Reading the Vogue occasionally and sometimes watching the red carpet at the Oscars. Though I liked to see the last trends or just immerse myself in the world of outfits, fabrics and all that is possible with some imagination, I was never a trend follower. I was just myself and loved simplicity - type in Audrey Tautou or Marion Cotillard and you will know where I’m headed. However, when adding some of that red carpet pepper, with or without a crush on Natalie Portman, seeing her in a Maria Grazia Chiuri cape sealed the deal for me. Elegance and simplicity at it’s peak. But I digress.
Fast forward in time, the only way I would have time to read the Vogue now would be if they’d suddenly write co-ed pieces about how to throw the best party for your ten year old (which I fantastically did do, if you’re wondering :). Getting immersed in that amazing children’s world is a day in day out adventure that brings you to new heights and gives you new perspectives. Even on fashion since we’re at it - having your presence urgently summoned to be shown a crab in a book, weaving seaweed into a fine-looking suit because your child knows you’re trying to add a stone to the sustainable fashion realm, shows what an amazing live-in-the-moment and let-my-little-great-heart-be capacity they have.
Ten years ago, after baby Number One was born, I still had a bit of time to spend in front of the mirror before date nights to perfect that ‘long-longed-for-date’ look. But then baby Number Two happened and then Number Three (I swear those are not their actual names) and my sitting in front of the mirror time was reduced to 0.7 seconds, more often then not with one of the little ones trying to engage me in some precious little way. You probably know - when you’re trying to get dressed then two hours later you’re still wearing what you started with while your daughter has tried all of the dresses you currently have. Not to mention wanting you to see her do the runway thing with her newly found stilettos. How can you not get lost in that… to then realise you have no time left anymore so you hear yourself thinking: ‘Where is that dress I can just put on in a blink of an eye (because I will always want to enjoy those special moments in time that will so soon have passed) and be more than ready for my date? - another scarce moment meaning the world to you as you connect to your ‘one and only’ without the ‘why’s and the diapers :)
When I started Moyo, I was a mom of three having just completed a move from one continent to another, on the look for those simple outfits that both look good and are super easy to slip into. But with no time to shop and no luck in finding what I wanted, and needed in the limited time i had to stroll through stores the idea of the shift dress came. I cannot say I was struck on the spot as I believe clothes do need to prove themselves worthy of your love, but as I made a couple and started wearing them I realised I had found my solution. (torn between wanting to still look like myself, but no time to shop and find something that both looks good and is super easy to slip into. Then I found the shift dress.
What made me fall in love with it is not only the fact that is slip-on, but also because of the colored cotton I can wear it with sneakers during the day or with pumps or boots in the evening, depending on where I have to be. For example, you can put an oversized denim jacket over and be ready to pick up the kids from school and then a nice leather one or a simple coat when you and hubby are going out for the evening.
Now you might ask yourself - as I did until I realised how they’re ‘officially’ called - what a shift dress is? It’s that type of dress that hangs a bit loosely straight down from the shoulders, without being fitted. Now, if you happen to be a bit of a pear shaped mom, don’t worry - this dress will slightly wrap your hips ever so lovingly. Usually, a shift dress is sleeveless, but I prefer mine with some sort of sleeve - the ¾ sort because it gives a note of elegance hiding the upper arms yet still allowing you to turn it up for a shorter version. Either way it is meant to compliment your beautifully unique body.
Let’s talk about body types for a second.
Since we’ve mentioned shapes, any super quick google (or your search engine of choice) search will tell you that there are four most common body types for women: the pear, the apple, straight or hourglass. Now, in a perfect world, our chest would match our hips and we would all be a forever hourglass figure. But the world is beautiful, not perfect, and so are we. So even if it is not easy having to go from a straight (many times when from straight) (or rectangular, or banana) figure directly to pear, meaning you have to rethink an entire wardrobe since 90% of the dresses you owned would stubbornly stop at your waistline, don’t despair! Embrace yourself, your shape, your body! And add a shift dress to your wardrobe - you will not regret it ;)
Introducing THE SHIFT DRESS
And you can pretty much see how the pattern can cover all love handles and tummies, should you want to.
If you’re a pear figure, you have two options with this dress, depending on the look you’re trying for. A smaller size will be a bit tighter on your hips and show off your booty a bit more, which is great for an evening out, for example. However, it could restrict your moves a bit, so if you’re planning on wearing it during errands or picking up kiddos from school you’ll notice that the fabric will rise up your thighs a bit which could be annoying at times. In which case, go for a size that allows it to flow loosely at the bottom too. And don’t worry, it won’t make you flat-chested or puff up on your shoulders when the fabric is high quality.
The rectangle figure, or straight, benefits the highest from this dress type, in my opinion, when the fabric is thicker, as it can fill you up in all the good places, unlike a soft, satin dress, for example, which usually follows the body lines. And for an extra shift of attention you can also go for geometric patterns and play with styles.
If you’re an apple figure, your main concern is to draw attention away from your midsection, while emphasizing your bust and your legs. You can wear the shift dress with heels, either kitten or full pumps, or skinny ballet flats, to lengthen the legs. Depending on your height, the Moyo shift dress usually falls a little over the knee (a size S is 94 cm/ 37 in), so make sure you wear it with a pair of shoes that show off your ankle and then some, for maximum impact.
The hourglass figure can style the dress a bit differently, as the goal here is to emphasize the middle area, so go with a soft, skinny, belt to compliment your natural curves. You can match the belt with your shoes or bag or get it in the same colors as the dress to make it more subtle. Either way, you’re in for a win!
As we wrap up I want to let you in on a secret, one we all share once we hit a certain stage in life - I love making things easier for myself, especially when I value time spent with my family most. I love having a number of unique, timeless pieces that I can wear from drop off to dinner without the need to spend too long in front of a mirror. Well..except if it’s for having fun and hearing that laughter echo in the walk-in closet and beyond :) So, yes, I have a shift dress, I have a number of them actually and I can say the best thing about it is that I still get compliments without having to put in any effort. On and off you go!
From somewhere in Africa, With love!
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Why choose consciously
There is more to fashion than just what meets the eye. It’s not all about the beauty or the trendiness of the product, but also about the hands that make it and whether those hands are truly valued or treated like merely a means toward an end.
In the next lines we will try to zoom in on what makes a garment actually worthy of our attention, what drives us to make the choices we make and how to make the right choices.
How To Shop Sustainably
It’s very easy to like shopping and be fashionable with the multitude of brands out there with prices dropped close to a nickel during sales. Because of store proximity and low prices, the average person consumes over 11 kg (24 lbs) of apparel each year with 30% of the entire wardrobe not being worn in a year.
Our passion for shopping and hunger for new is constantly fed through commercials, billboards, the shows we’re watching and the person sitting at the table next to us as we’re having our Sunday brunch. Not to mention the countless items offered to us and the new items added to them every two weeks. It makes it difficult for us to stay focused and untempted. Fear of missing out is also kicking in. So in order to make it easier for you and I to focus as we stroll along the shopping streets we’ve put together some Fast Fashion stats:
With this in mind, what can you, the beauty lover, do to continue looking good while also supporting the environment? To get back on track, here is a checklist for the conscious shopper looking for the next fashionable item that aligns not only with your personal style but also your ethical beliefs.
Be mindful when making fashion choices, as your choice might influence the world we live in more than you can imagine. Always go for sustainable and conscious brands that are in line with your desire to do good and impact for the better. You will pay more, but it is a long term investment in the hands that make it, the quality of the fabrics used, the environment and, through all that, a great investment in yourself.
What you wear is who you are!
]]>The MOYO Story
I can’t really say it was love at first sight.
Traveling between the peaceful and structured Holland and Nairobi, Kenya, does not always come without challenges. It took some months as I started to settle in the new double life between the two continents when I began to realise the magnitude of the beauty I was surrounded by, and the dire need for work opportunity Kenya is struggling with. I don’t remember when or how I fell in love with Africa, but now I feel compelled to combine the love I have for the people here with how I feel about fashion.
MOYO (meaning 'heart' or 'soul' in Swahili) was born as both a concept and a design, as I believe beauty can be expressed through fashion in an ethical and sustainable way, with a heart for both people and product. To bring my designs to life, I chose to work with The Textile Loft, a group of five Kenyan seamstresses as well as to buy fabrics locally with the ultimate goal of contributing to the local economy by promoting the craftiness of kenyan artisans. So on top of a good quality end product, MOYO also empowers women and promotes good working conditions and fair salaries, in line with the principles of slow fashion.
Fast vs Slow Fashion
Competition between labels, accessibility of fashion trends and the decrease in prices are only a few factors that supported the idea of ‘fast fashion’ — shoppers constantly consuming products and garments hitting stores sometimes only a week after the design was approved. According to “The True Cost”, a 2015 docudrama about the fashion industry, worldwide we consume 80 billion new pieces of clothing every year, wasting 11 million tons of textile in the U.S. alone. Clothes no longer tell a story for most people, they become disposable. The environmental impact is huge.
The concept of slow fashion was introduced in 2017 as a direct response to the fast movement, promoting good quality garments, a clean process that does not harm the environment and fair conditions and pay for producers. In line with this trend, MOYO is developing garments with an emotional and cultural connection, ensuring high quality, which eventually leads to a larger lifespan.
Working with a small production studio also allows me to have a smaller line, which in turn allows me to inspect each item independently and make sure it meets the standards. It also created a connection with those who run The Textile Loft, emphasizing the feeling of familiarity and sustainable fashion.
Minimalism with a touch of colour
It’s only natural that a country where the lowest temperature is 62°F (17°C) will have sunny, colourful patterns well rooted into its culture. And this is what strikes you most when you find yourself roaming the streets of Nairobi, the abundance of colors in contrast with the socio-economic conditions. And it’s exactly those African patterns that are worth exploring, especially when the goal is to provide jobs and bring something back to the economy.
Through MOYO I chose to bring to life the new wave of minimalism in fashion design by adding color to specific garments. I use Kitenge or Dutch Wax Print — an African cotton print in various colours, the type of fabric you see Kenyan women wearing — for some of my designs and simple, pure fabrics for others, as a way to reflect the cultural diversity of the African continent reaching to both Western and African identity.
And now you can too fall in love with our patterns online, as MOYO is available as a web store. Join our journey to learn more about what we do and how we do it. And maybe later you’ll feel inspired enough to take a trip to Kenya and allow yourself to be immersed in the culture.
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